BODHGAYA TO LUMBINI
Going back
At the age of eighty, before his death in Kusinara, the Lord Buddha predicted: “After I am no more, O Ananda, men of belief will visit the four places with faith, curiosity and devotion: Lumbini where I was born, Bodhgaya where I attained enlightenment, Sarnath where I gave the first sermons and Kusinara where I shall pass into Mahaparinirvana” Those who made such pilgrimages will be reborn on the dissolution of their body after death in a heavenly state.
56 years ago, Pasang Futar and his pregnant wife - Lhakpa Futi walked all the way from Namche Bazaar to Bodhgaya with a mission to save their unborn child. After their first daughter and a son, seven children were born and did not survive. At Bodhgaya, they prayed, sought blessing and returned to their village. The child- a son was born and was aptly named Dorji Tsering synonymous with Bodhgaya. After 56 years, a trip to Bodhgaya was organized and arranged by my sister Ang Futi (Sophie) consisting of our mother Lhakpa Futi who is now 96 years, Ang Fura 93 years, Ang Chemi 89, Ang Norbu, Lhakpa Doma and their granddaughter tshiring along with me and my wife Anju . This trip was to fulfill the wishes of our mother and aunts who wanted to visit Bodhgaya for the last time and also hear the sermons and preaching of the Dalai Lama. So we left for the long journey on December 31, 2009.
The drastic changes and rapid progress in the development being made in all the nook and corners of the state of Bihar was just amazing. How a dedicated politician can make so much of difference in such a short span of time. There are many highways of four and eight lanes crisscrossing reaching all other states. The roads leading to all the religious sites such as Rajgriha, Nalanda, Bodhgaya, Vaishali and Kusinara are well made, clean, proper sign for direction all around with well managed traffic systems. There are hundreds of buses, jeeps and cars which throng these places but you will be amazed at the ease with which it is all managed. You cannot believe that you are in Bihar that we remember!!!!
We stayed one day at Rajgriha, visited the caves where Lord Buddha had meditated for 6 years and took a dip at the hot springs where it is believed that all diseases are cured. The huge numbers of people visiting these places are mostly Indian national from various states. The reasonable priced guest houses and lodges and markets are all bustling with activities and that is what and how domestic tourism should be. We need to learn so that our dependence on foreign tourist will diminish.
We reached safely at Bodhgaya where Lord Buddha had attained enlightenment under a Bodhi Tree. My mother and aunts were happy being able to visit the MahaBodhi Vihar, pray and light incense for all the ones who had passed away and for the long life of all the living. The Dalai Lama had also arrived in Bodhgaya along with many High ranking Buddhist teachers and monks to preach and give sermons to the huge mass of people. Thousands of devotees from all over India, Nepal, Bhutan and other countries were quietly and fervently listening to the sermons of the Dalai Lama. My mother and aunts would visit the Mahabodhi Vihar in the morning and then listen to the Sermons and preaching of the Dalai Lama during the day. The best thing to happen during this time was the opportunity to have a private meeting with The Dalai Lama who was himself pleased at meeting the senior ladies from Nepal and agreed to have a group photo taken. My mother and aunts happiness knew no bounds. My sister had fulfilled the wishes of these ladies beyond their imagination and I had the opportunity to come here with my mother after 56 years though I sorely missed and remembered my late father at the MahaBodhi Vihar. My wife and I prayed that we be able to return to Bodhgaya again with our daughters in the near future.
After a week at Bodhgaya, we left for Vaishali and then reached Kusinara which is the place where Lord Buddha passed away into Mahaparinirvana. Next morning we visited the site where Lord Buddha passed away and the site of cremation ground which is so well preserved to this day.
We decided not to visit one of the 4th places “Sarnath” taking in to consideration the long drive and the health of our mother and aunts. So we headed home to Lumbini from Kusinara. The cleanliness, comfortable road and the greeneries in all the religious sites that we visited were slowly fading away in front of our eyes as we were nearing the Nepal border. We were first greeted at the Sunouli border by long line of trucks and buses waiting to enter Nepal. Suddenly stark realization strikes that you are entering a place where law and order has disappeared and replaced by chaos, dirt and disorder. You feel pity, loss of self esteem, desperation and frustration at the situation all around you in your own country. The condition of the single lane road leading to the birth place of Lord Buddha- Lumbini has turned into potholes jammed with trucks and tractors of the numerous cement factories built all along the road to the historical sites. The narrow bridges are on the verge of collapse and the massive shed and houses encroaching the small roads looks like that a deliberate obstruction is being created to the few pilgrims that still visit Lumbini. The comfort and ease of the pilgrims is not considered at all.
We stayed in a monastery outside the temple for the night and planned to stay for two days visiting Kapilvastu and many other religious sites in and around Lumbini. Next morning we visited the Mayadevi temple. The dirt, dusts and noises of the shopkeepers just at entrance and the barren dry, unkempt look all around the Birth Place will simply move you to tears. I would not have known the extent of the irresponsibility, incompetence and shamelessness of our Nepalese if I had not visited the other religious sites in India. You can see the sheer negligence on the part of the concerned authority at Lumbini. We did not want to stay there anymore so we left for Kathmandu after an hour. No wonder the tourist from India and other country just visit the Mayadevi temple for an hour or so and head back to where they come from. There is nothing such as drinking water, toilets and restrooms to make the stay comfortable, pleasing and interesting for the visitors. The government must take drastic steps immediately to preserve, develop and manage this site in a professional manner.
It has been a unique experience of great satisfaction for me and my family for being able to take your parents to a pilgrimage so I request all readers to do that if you have not done so already.
Dorji Tsering Sherpa
Galfutar, Kathmandu.
THIS IS PUBLISHED IN THE KATHMANDU POST ON JANUARY 30, 2010
It was good to see the picture of gaga Lhakpa, gaga Fura and uru Chemi ( 3 sisters ) and ai Futi with Dalai Lama. Sounds like you guys had a great trip to ( Nekur ) India. I hope my family can join your's next time. Thanks for sharing your cute story and the trip details with us.
I can not believe that gaga Lhakpa is 96 years old. I thought she was in her 80's and for some reason I always thought gaga Fura was older than gaga Lhakpa. Anyways, they all look great at that age. They all look younger than their age.
I talked with gaga Fura a couple days ago. She is happy to arrive here in Boston and to see her son's families.
Please give our ( me and Chhindi ) love to gaga Lhakpa, uru Chemi and ai Futi.
Yes the trip was filled with tension and worry about the health of the old ladies. The long drive and the unbelievable cold and bad weather in Bihar took the Sherpa of Mt.Everest country by surprise. we all got cold and caugh. But the trip was a great success for all of us. It is so good to know that you guys love my mother and the anis. If you get in touch with Nawang Nuru tell him to watch the sherpakyidung once in a while.
I will tell ai Futi, ama and ani about your well wishes.
Thank you again for your nice comments it feels good.
What a bliss for anyone to get blessings from His Holiness the Dalai Lama, and that too at a private audience. Blessed are the 'ladies from Namche' (picture above, if you don't mind) for having a son (nephew) like you, Dorji Tsering, for whom your parents made that trip 56 years ago, and a daughter (niece) Ang Phuti (Sophie) who made this pilgrimage possible.
Having gone to schools in India - I remember vividly how the roads in India were lined with trees and all of a sudden reach Nepal and how the trees disappear. It was indeed a shocking sight to see - and I can totally understand what you said in your beutiful story - the stark difference between 'poor' India and 'careless' Nepal?
Hi Chori,
tks for your nice words. I dont know how to post the photo and you have done it tks again. visiting Bodhgaya was something which I cannot explain in words, you have got to visit yourself to know the feeling. so will do that with you all in the near future.
I am sorry because I thought it was Sharon Sherpa who also uses ssherpa in the sherpakyidug. Any way thank you very much for your nice comments. Please do introduce yourself. where did you study in India? I did my schooling in Khumjung and then in AVM kathmandu, Amrit science college then in travel trade. it is nice to know each other through the sherpakyidug sharing ideas and all.
No worries at all Dorji Dai. I made a mistake by not putting my own name down which certainly confused you in thinking it was Sharon.
Your story hit me quite strongly because of similar feelings I've had and still do. Many would just say, 'home sweet home' and tend to disregard all the negatives that Nepal has been. I do agree with 'home sweet home' part but the stark reality that Nepal is, which it doesn't have to be, hits smack on your face even if you are returning from India, which many consider a poor nation - and especially when we regard to it as a country from where all the 'khali bottle or shishi' byers and sellers come from. :-)
I guess, I took solace from your writing that I wasn't the only one to think so.
I also liked how you demonstrated your disdain of our politicians by praising, if I'm not mistaken, Lalu Prasad of Bihar, when you admired the infrastructure of that state, considered the poorest in India. And your experience in travel business spoke a volume when you complained what's missing, including the basic necessity like water, in Lumbini, which precludes people from staying longer - which translates into less business for the locals there etc...
To top it all off, my admiration knows no bound for your and your sister's (and others) accompanying your mother and aunts at their golden age to places where they'd rather be than anywhere else besides home with their loved ones. Although they said 'one last time', hope that there will be more.
In a personal story of a religious pilgrimage, you so aptly wove in some politics and economics related to your travel destination(s).
Just a few observations.
BTW, I went to schools in Kalimpong and Varanasi in India. The last one, to be very specific, was in Sarnath, the one holy place out of four, coincidently, that you didn't make.
Dear Sonam Bhai,
It is really pleasing to get such an educated, specific and honest comments from you. Thank you again. I will convey your sincere good wishes to my mother, aunts and sister about the trip being not the last one but many more to come. The present Chief Minister is not Lalu but a new one who is doing miracle job in Bihar. Lalu is the teacher to all our Nepali political leaders.
You were so lucky to be educated in Kalimpong and Varanasi where all the Nepalese senior writers, poet and many more still go for their higher eduction.
short story of mine-
Many years ago, may be around 1974, I told my wife that my parents had gone to Bodhgaya and named me so I want to visit it. So we went from Bhairawa to Vanaras, stayed in a hotel and then next morning went to visit the Bodhgaya. Came back to Kathmandu and found that the place we had visited was not Bodhgaya but SARNATH. So you see I had actually visited Sarnath.
Nice knowing you and hope to communicate in other topics of interest.
Happy Losar! Dorji Daai's personal account of his trip to Bodhgaya with family was thoroughly enjoyable. I have had opportunitines to come across a few Dorji Daai's 'letter to editor' on Himalayan Times on issues that related Kathmandu's social issues. This was the first article I have come across from Dorji Daai and I hope to read from him. I met Dorji's daai a couple weeks ago at a Sherpa Gumba at Boudha and I was much impressed know he is a serioud practitioner of Bipasyana meditation. I guess, many of us do not know that he is also the senior most golf player among the Shepas. He is currently representing Nepal on some international golf meet in Bangaladesh ( ?). For all his talent and achievements, Dorji Daai is a down to earth person with boundless energy. Salute.
Tashi Dele. Thank you for appreciating my article. I have recently started to write in the news paper and it is getting to be more intersting and enjoyable when our people appreciate the achievement of each other. The only thing lacking in our society is the utterance of simple word saying well done - keep it up - congrats etc. But younger generation of guys like you will surely bring much needed change. Thank you again for all the good words which I hope to maintain in the coming days. I have just come back from PUNE (India) participating in the All India Amateur Golf Championship. The trip was marred by the Bomb blast right infront of our Hotel where 11 foreigner and one Nepali boy died. It was horrible. I am thinking of wirting something on this disaster thing after a few days.
I need to share this with you. I met a man Mr. Siddhartha Gautama (not our Lord Buddha) who says he is the President of Lumbini Foundation. He want me to join his foundation which do not have any office anywhere and am not sure of his real intent in establishing this foundation of such religious importance. I know Lumbini Development Trust which is run by the government.
This man was involved in taking 6 MPs to Dharmashala and met The Dalai Lama which caused a lot of controversy a few months back. He is now planning to have a Buddhist conference of some sorts. He told me that he is visiting Dharmashala soon to discuss this matter.
Let me tell you that many of us want The Dalai Lama to visit Nepal on a pilgrimage and pray for the peace in our country we are working on it. The Dalai Lama should not get involved with any characters and organization which will create more rift in the eye of the Nepalese government. My sister suggested that I write this to you so that necessary information may be relayed to Dharmashalla.
; windowHandle.focus())
; windowHandle.focus())
; windowHandle.focus())
